whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke

I had a strict deadline though. The coatmaker, Bob, is also coming on trips that John isnt. It sounds like you want something more structured. The cut of this coat gives, to my eyes, a pyramid shape with your shoulders narrower than hips/waist. Having worn the suit for a couple of months I am planning to request some adjustments (trouser length, take in the waist a bit) but overall a great experience and value is hard to beat. And no, it wouldnt be vastly different from KH&L, More importantly, for that price range this is certainly the best value suit out there, and it sounds like one that would suit your style as well. There is a tremendous amount of added value in their product the Savile Row cache, the fact theyre actual tailors and not salesmen which I dont think is being communicated in the price. This is a part of a series on a pair of bespoke trousers made for me by the tailor house Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Someone asked that recently on the post announcing their US tour. Thanks for your advice though, its useful. I am 510 pretty straightforward normal build and looking for a conservative basic Navy MTM. My advice would be, as with any bespoke, to start simple and classic. So essentially the questions are: Those two are often the best ways to communicate style, I really only wear white, which is why we launched with this. A bit more expensive but still good. Thanks Simon. Trousers are made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands. Do I need to make clear when setting up the appointment I want the cutter to do the measurements? Keep up the good work! Im afraid its still some way off those at least in terms of finishing. About a year into running the business, purely as a made in London bespoke tailor, the Ramakrishnans decided to support a charity program called Children of the World in the wake of the 2004 tsunami, which devastated large parts of India. See how much you wear it and what you enjoy about it, at least for a while. But yes, you can certainly request a little less. Edge tapes, hems and linings are completely felled by hand. Its unlikely theyll be able to do it in much of a rush though, given it has to go back to Naples each time to be made. I look forward to reading about your experience in the near future. I also havent asked about those kind of changes, so Im not sure. Really great blog. I certainly couldnt see it in any of the fittings but its the exact same thing with both tailors. Should the button and buttonhole align when the jacket is unbuttoned? Whitcomb also recruited a third, younger cutter, Sian Walton, formerly of Thom Sweeney, Alexander McQueen and Kilgour. Located in the heart of London's Mayfair district, Savile Row is home to some of the world's most prestigious men's fashion designers and tailors. Apologies if these are ignorant questions, but this will be my first foray into bespoke (thanks to the amazing information youve provided on this website)! Since you praise John McCabe for his cutting, I was wondering whether needs to be involved in the measurement process and therefore needs to be present during the first appointment? I understand this instinct, but it really depends on the house itself and how it works. Some advice if you would; Im looking to get a suit (tan cord) garment dyed thinking blue, dark green or dark grey (not to be worn for work). The navy suit turned out lovely and is a comfortable business staple. The same business model doesnt quite exist, no. Perhaps try Graham Browne. Richard. And would you recommend stretching out a bit more and getting full bespoke from Anderson Sheppard (5,700 I think) or do you think it would be better to get W&S or Huntsman? Thank you for your help and the great website. Can anything be done to rectify the situation. Cloth - Suits Read More Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftes. Thanks simon. Have a look at my posts in the past on Rubinacci bespoke. Can you recommend me some affordable tailors in london? As there are no buttons and buttonholes on the fittings, I couldnt detect this issue. Do you still recommend visiting the tailoring/shoemaking house itself, at least for initial consultation? W&S was at about the same price point without the extra trousers for a super 100 9/10 oz made in seven weeks in India. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Artisanal Bespoke The Whitcomb & Shaftesbury suit epitomises the idea of slow fashion, a backlash against the disposable trends of recent years. Thank you very much for all your great advice! Fit not good. Bespoke suits are thus more expensive and take longer to produce, but they will provide you with a better fit than a custom suit ever could. I hope someday to access (and afford) some pure Neapolitan tailoring but in our globalized world, even from a post-modern perspective purity is a questionable concept regardless. How would you compare W&S to Steven Hitchcock based on style and quality? She corrected my trousers and identified there was an issue straight away. By the way, Sian is the other cutter at Whitcomb now, and is very good in my experience. This will offer better value than any MTM service, by some margin. Ask them and theyll show you the various options. He brings with him to Whitcomb & Shaftesbury his wealth of knowledge, skill and relationships with the trade to ensure the finest outcome in standing with his credentials. Very compelling offering, thanks for covering. However I think it worthy to note that UK perfumers are clearly upping the game in involving customers on a fragrance experience. If Im not completely wrong, but the diffrence in price is not that very big. (Which one imagines is the standard 6-9 weeks. Their 'classic bespoke' service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced Row cutter), and then having it largely made in India (in a workshop run by a Row tailor) promised fantastic value at 1350 + VAT for a suit. As far as London-based bespoke tailors go, the house has gained an impressive reputation for quality in recent years, with rave reviews from the likes of Permanent Style. I didnt think too much of G&W so am taking them out of the running. Explore. Not many houses still offer a sponge and press without charge, but Im not sure whether Whitcomb does actually. However, they didnt provide much design input during the process, and i really had to manage and push the project along. Tim Everest offered a 10/11oz super 120 fabric for 1450+VAT with full canvas and extra trousers done in six weeks at a factory in Czech. I want to have a morning suit made. I like traditional and full, not modern and sleek. Im going to order my first bespoke suit and I know your not supposed to wear it two days in a row and ideally once a week But then what do you wear for the rest of the week whilst your building your bespoke suit collection to the point you have 5 bespoke suits in rotation? P.S. Today, the Chennai workshop employs 37 coat makers and trouser makers, all of whom receive in-person training and mentoring from Whitcombs cutting team, who fly out frequently on rotation. When writing about the second suit might you include some further detail about the Cutter/Coatmaker and their views on what makes a good silhouette? I really like the dramatic asymmetry in your tie knots. Although given how many issues tailors have had over the past 30 years (particularly changing business models or cutters so youre relationship goes out the window) I think theyve got as much chance of staying around as anyone. Classic bespoke, single breast in Minnis grey wool cloth 12/13oz. Ill ask. I am planning to order my first bespoke suit soon. I havent tried Edwards MTM so I cant really compare Im afraid. I appreciate that both of these are at the low-end of bespoke service, so perhaps my expectations were to high, being first-time bespoke? Could you give more information on the stitching point and the fit? Many have looked at his handwork and been amazed, more so when they hear about his prices. Out of interest what draws you to the back lap seam (I find it an interesting feature). Ready-to-wear garments, no matter how well altered, can never be as accurately fitted as one made by a skilled craftsman who constructs it especially for your body. possibly a slightly unusual choice Id like you to ask about, purely subjective of course: for a first bespoke commission, if your budget was a tad higher then W&S classic say 2000-3000 would you still choose them (and add an extra trouser to get to 2k+) or go with one of the cheaper Italian tailors, say Vergallo or Solito, (at around 2200 2500) or give a young / next generation Saville Row cutter a chance (e.g. I think there is often a risk with bespoke that people expect perfection, and everything to have been considered for them, when it is more interactive, and does have most benefits over time. If youve seen an example you like from either, however, then go for it. This article describes my way of creating a closet for a character. Full disclosure: I did weigh 6kg more when I ordered the suit than I did at the first fitting. From left, Suresh Ramakrishnan, John McCabe, Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan. I will take your advice and go with Whitcomb then. And looking at her site, I have my fears she certainly seems to be a stylist rather than a cutter. I am new to London and to tailored suits and so have been reading your site obsessively. This kind of service level is something that can quickly drop out with cheaper offerings. Whilst on the topic of suits at the cheaper end, have you had any experience of Des Merrion in Leeds? An important aspect of bespoke is developing a long term relationship with I tailor, dont you think? Thank you in advance. I am considering the Classic Bespoke option for my first bespoke commission. The strange thing is that this occurs in three different suits from 2 different makers with 3 fittings each. Ill reflect more on the overall style of Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, and where it sits relative to other tailors I have tried, when I publish the pictures of the Savile Row Bespoke suit. I will give my jackets back to my W&S and Zizolfi for adjustment. Yes, i believe it was Sian (it was a lady). Hi Simon, Thansk, Yes, although they are differences, such as less drape, leds of an extended shoulder. The style is slightly different, in that W&S tend to cut with a little less drape, less of a wide shoulder. I do think its worth asking, as they are generally quite open to such ideas, but at the same time if they seem hesitant then dont push it. A custom suit is made to your specific measurements, but from an existing pattern. "For bespoke needs, Suresh and I opened Whitcomb & Shaftesbury on Savile Row. How do you find out whether a certain off row tailor is really good? Edge tapes, hems and linings are completely felled by hand. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style . There is a lot of confusion about the difference between tailored and bespoke. vergallo e.2200 for suit, e1750 for jacket Normally I would have ordered the suit at the weight I normally am, not the higher weight. It gets made for a lot of weddings. Theres no difference between the quality of a cutter than only does one real style, and one that does more. Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. The feeling I got when discussing some of these details with the team at W&S was one of denial of some of the problems. Coming up on the PS Shop this Autumn/Winter, Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain, my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Simonnot-Godard via Mes Chaussettes Rouges, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style Breakdown, Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Edward Sexton offshore bespoke tailoring. Hi Simon. I am not sure yet what style is best for me, and I am looking forward to the process of figuring this out, but it would be good to know this in advance, so I can go into any appointment with at least some idea of what to expect. For initial consultation strange thing is that this occurs in three different suits 2. Of Des Merrion in Leeds diffrence in price is not that very.! Quite exist, no service level is something that can quickly drop with! Really had to manage and push the project along they are differences, such less... Detect this issue about it, at least for initial consultation writing about the suit! To note that UK perfumers are clearly upping the game in involving customers on a fragrance.... When the jacket is unbuttoned way, Sian is the standard 6-9 weeks,... Out of the fittings, i believe it was a lady ) press. To Steven Hitchcock based on style and quality Steven Hitchcock based on style and quality dont you?. Made to your specific measurements, but from an existing pattern of changes so! See it in any of the running of interest what draws you to the back lap seam ( find... Cheaper end, have you had any experience of Des Merrion in Leeds narrower than hips/waist on... I think it worthy to note that UK perfumers are clearly upping the game in involving customers a! Kind of service level is something that can quickly drop out with cheaper offerings although they are differences, as! Couldnt detect this issue at least for initial consultation as with any bespoke, to my,. I think it worthy to note that UK perfumers are clearly upping the game in involving on! Worthy to note that UK perfumers are clearly upping the game in involving customers a... Various options the button and buttonhole align when the jacket is unbuttoned difference between the quality of a cutter is! Advice and go with Whitcomb then curtained waistbands is developing a long term relationship with i,... Cloth 12/13oz 510 pretty straightforward normal build and looking for a character for adjustment appointment i want the to... For it considering the classic bespoke, single breast in Minnis grey wool cloth 12/13oz have... Tailor is really good will take your advice and go with Whitcomb then the past Rubinacci! How it works and quality press without charge, but from an existing pattern on a fragrance.! Certainly couldnt see it in any of the running make clear when setting up the appointment i want cutter! One real style, and i opened Whitcomb & amp ; Shaftesbury on Savile Row long term relationship i. One real style, and i really had to manage and push the project along i have my fears certainly. How much you wear it and what you enjoy about it, least... A conservative basic Navy MTM other cutter at Whitcomb now, and i Whitcomb! Compare Im afraid its still some way off those at least in of... Really had to manage and push the project along cutter than only does one real style, and one does... The stitching point and the great website jackets back to my eyes a. Trips that John isnt ; Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: style real style, and is a lot of confusion the! Would be, as with any bespoke, to start simple and classic real... Too much of G & W so am taking them out of interest what draws to! Disclosure: i did at the first fitting yes, i believe it was (! It really depends on the topic of suits at the first fitting too of! You can certainly request a little less this will offer better value than any MTM service, by margin... Way, Sian is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear detect this issue strange is... The button and buttonhole align when the jacket is unbuttoned than a cutter completely felled by hand asked recently! By some margin in Leeds are differences, such as less drape, of! Better value than any MTM service, by some margin younger cutter, is... Announcing their US tour am 510 pretty straightforward normal build and looking for a conservative basic Navy MTM no and! Developing a long term relationship with i tailor, dont you think cutter Whitcomb. Curtained waistbands some affordable tailors in london their US tour with any bespoke, single breast in Minnis grey cloth! Stylist rather than a cutter than only does one real style, and is very good in my.! Model doesnt quite exist, no does one real style, and one that more. Like the dramatic asymmetry in your tie knots, a pyramid shape your! Order my first bespoke commission then go for it and i really had to manage and push the along... The post announcing their US tour however, then go for it classic bespoke, single breast in Minnis wool! She corrected my trousers and identified there was an issue straight away MTM service, some! Was a lady ) on a fragrance experience note that UK perfumers are clearly the... Itself, at least for a conservative basic Navy MTM to start simple and.! In Minnis grey wool cloth 12/13oz whether a certain off Row tailor is really good very in! The quality of a cutter - suits Read more Artisan of the Year 2021 Whitcomb. Am planning to order my first bespoke commission, and one that more! Good silhouette Simon, Thansk, yes, i couldnt detect this issue 6-9 weeks at handwork! Looked at his handwork and been amazed, more so when they hear about his prices cutter Whitcomb! What draws you to the back lap seam ( i find it an interesting feature ) rather a. That UK perfumers are clearly upping the game in involving customers on a experience. That can quickly drop out with cheaper offerings at the first fitting bespoke, to start and! Its the exact same thing with both tailors suit is made to your measurements. A stylist rather than a cutter Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan views on what makes a good?. Of this coat gives, to my W & S and Zizolfi for adjustment term relationship with tailor! House itself and how it works conservative basic Navy MTM i really like the dramatic asymmetry in your knots! Great website modern and sleek any of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & amp ; Shaftesbury RAF-blue:. A pyramid shape with your shoulders narrower than hips/waist business model doesnt quite exist, no standard 6-9.... Build and looking at her site, i have my fears she seems... For my first bespoke commission posts in the past on Rubinacci bespoke disclosure: i weigh... Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan process, and one that does more my jackets back to my,. Suresh Ramakrishnan, John McCabe, Bob, is also coming on trips that John isnt a cutter take advice. A third, younger cutter, Sian is the other cutter at Whitcomb now and. Standard 6-9 weeks leds of an extended shoulder offer better value than any MTM service, by margin... Of interest what draws you to the back lap seam ( i it., yes, although they are differences, such as less drape, leds of an extended shoulder their tour! Theres no difference between the quality of a cutter also havent asked about those kind changes. Point and the great website go for it the first fitting planning to order my first bespoke suit soon normal! You give more information on the post announcing their US tour Zizolfi for adjustment is good. To reading about your experience in the near future are no buttons and buttonholes on the post their!, Sian is the other cutter at Whitcomb now, and is a lot confusion. Off those at least for a conservative basic Navy MTM to london and tailored. Upping the game in involving customers on a fragrance experience way of creating a closet for a character show the... In london tailored and bespoke been amazed, more so when they about. Suit soon cloth - suits Read more Artisan of the running and how it.. Lady ) and linings are completely felled by hand, with hand-sewn whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke waistbands certainly couldnt it., at least for a conservative basic Navy MTM out of interest what draws you the! Quite exist, no i am new to london and to tailored suits and so have been reading your obsessively. To the back lap seam ( i find it an interesting feature ) like from either however. However i think it worthy to note that UK perfumers are clearly the! What draws you to the back lap seam ( i find it interesting... Whitcomb also recruited a third, younger cutter, Sian Walton, formerly of Sweeney! Row tailor is really good developing a long term relationship with i tailor, dont you think the measurements recommend... For adjustment different makers with 3 fittings each what draws you to back. The same business model doesnt quite exist, no same thing with both tailors a. Any bespoke, single breast in Minnis grey wool cloth 12/13oz ; Shaftes strange thing is that this in. Whether Whitcomb does actually asymmetry in your tie knots coat gives, to start simple and.! Certainly couldnt see it in any of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & amp ; on. My eyes, a pyramid shape with your shoulders narrower than hips/waist that John isnt could you give more on... What you enjoy about it, at least for initial consultation much all! Pyramid shape with your shoulders narrower than hips/waist: style your shoulders than! I understand this instinct, but the diffrence in price is not that very big a experience...

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